I love how exotically perfumed this organically-grown Gimblett Gravels merlot is, and the fact that it’s made with no added sulphites (hence the ‘undressed’) – so I’m loving what it has, and what it hasn’t. Perky plum, pepper and pomegranate layers set the pace for boatloads of berries and spice on the finish. It’s fresh and frisky and drinking fantastically well already, yet stash some away for another six months and that velvety vavoom will bring the boys to the yard. Meatloaf baked with pancetta and olives? Oh yes.