Where has this champagne been all my life? With its pale gold hue, ultra-fine bead, pillowy, creamy mousse and enticing aromas of milk chocolate, lemon, fresh rising dough and delicately toasted almonds, it’s swoon-inducing from the first sip. It may rock an old-school label, but it’s a fresh, 50:50 pinot noir/chardonnay blend with vibrant acidity, apple layers and a lengthy rich finish. I’d have no hesitation serving this with tiny toasts topped with chunks crayfish dobbed with lemon mayo.