Arriba Albariño!!
New Zealand’s breakout, white grape star Albariño, might have it’s historic home in the North West of Spain and Northern Portugal, but it’s also achieving degrees of distinction in the east coast gloriousness of Gisborne. Pronounced Al-Barr (roll your rrrs) – Een-Yo and first planted in the region back in 2009 albariño is clearly loving the Gisborne terroir. The clones were imported from Galicia in Spain where it’s recognized as their best and most fashionable white grape, and with the last couple of years boasting some of Gisborne’s best summers on record; a group of local Albariño growers have decided to gang together to showcase this sensational Spanish grape. Villa Maria, Rod McDonald, Matawhero, Coopers Creek, Hihi and Spade Oak are members of the Gisborne Albariño Group, an unfortunate acronym (GAG) because actually their wines are seriously good. Dangerously drinkable in fact, particularly if you’re partial to wines on the dry side.
Lean, the lovely, the bony and beautiful, it’s the Twiggy of wine, the Kate Moss, the Gigi Hadid (if you’re twelve and reading this) of wine varieties, which makes it a superb match for recipes involving fish, lemon, capers, tomatoes and lashings of green herbs. In the words of the team at Spade Oak “This famed vinho verde cries out for mussels, rabbit stew or charcoal-grilled calamari, perhaps even a whole snapper, slashed, stuffed and grilled over vine cuttings. That sort of summery thing.” Look out for aromas and flavours resembling white peach, citrus, subtle florals, crushed shells, hints of pepper and lemongrass. On the palate a good Albariño will wash across your tastebuds like a liquid loofah, polishing and exfoliating the mouth in the most magical way.
Gisborne was once considered the chardonnay capital of the country, whereas now it just might be creating its own albariño army.
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Villa Maria Cellar Selection Gisborne Albariño 2015 $17.99 ★★★★
I really like this wine because it’s bracingly fresh and shows classic white flesh peach, nectarine and lemony characters alongside a squeak of apricot stone, crushed shells, hints of salt and has a vibrant, racy finish. Very tangy and fresh and has a long, mineral-edged finish. www.sceniccellars.co.nz
Matawhero Gisborne Albarino 2014 $25 ★★★½
While it’s bold and golden in the glass, you’ll need to dig deep in the nose department. But it’s worth the effort because you’ll uncover subtle lemon verbena, white nectarine and wild flowers, while on the palate it’s seriously, palate-exfoliatingly dry. Matawhero’s owners, Kirsten and Richard Searle, are clearly fans of the variety, and this is a style that has smoked seafood written all over it. www.matawhero.co.nz
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Left Field Gisborne Albariño 2015 $17.99 ★★★★
Attractive aromas of white nectarine, crushed shells, hints of brine and roadside daisies. The acidity is piercing and devastatingly dry (in a good way). It’s a wine that’ll kickstart even the most jaded of tastebuds and have them crying out for more tastes and flavours. Ultra-cleansing stonefruit, hints of lemon lift it even further on the finish.
Coopers Creek Bell Ringer Gisborne Albarino 2015 $22 ★★★★½
Winemaker Simon Nunns has crafted a distinctly limey, lipsmackingly dry and intensely mineral-driven albariño from Gisborne’s Bell vineyard. It’s got real presence and poise and truckloads of tangy stonefruit notes, yet it’s beautifully balanced and delicate at the same time. Sensational with pan seared groper steaks drizzled with lemon. www.cooperscreek.co.nz
Rod McDonald Wines One Off Gisborne Albariño 2015 $23 ★★★★
There’s a whiff of gunflint and smashed river rocks, watercress, lemongrass and salty seabreeze happening on the nose, followed by a tsunami of steely acidity, bony minerality and crunchy green apple characters. There’s a smoky tone to the finish which is long and zesty and makes this wine truly magical with lemon and parmesan risotto.
www.advintage.co.nz
