Matawhero Gisborne Albarino 2014 $25 ★★★½

While it’s bold and golden in the glass, you’ll need to dig deep in the nose department. But it’s worth the effort because you’ll uncover subtle lemon verbena, white nectarine and wild flowers, while on the palate it’s seriously, palate-exfoliatingly dry. Matawhero’s owners, Kirsten and Richard Searle, are clearly fans of the variety, and this is a style that has smoked seafood written all over it.