Barossa Valley Estate Shiraz 2012 $22 ★★★★

The inside of the glass is coated in a film of inky magenta-black on the first swirl, while on the nose it has what I can describe only as the smell of a large bowl of ageing plums and berries slowly fermenting inside a carpenter’s workshop – all earthy sawdust, old leather, machine oil and heady black fruit. It tastes exactly the same, except a seam of solid acidity keeps it buoyant and fresh on the finish. Warm, velvety and mouthcoating.