Take the little bendy track called Bush Lane above Mangawhai beach, and you’ll find the small but perfectly formed vineyard belonging to Ross Millar. He grows tiny amounts of darn lovely wine and this syrah is no exception. Ultra-pure peppercorn characters on the nose merge with lifted violet, dark cherry, blueberry and juicy, succulent fruit … Read More
2016 Archived Columns
Wine column for week beginning Sat 12 Nov, 2016
I’m writing this column on Wednesday November 9th. Trying to write while the television screen is showing that the world will need to strap itself in for a Donald Trump presidency is nigh on impossible. Just typing the words “Donald Trump Presidency” makes the vomit rise in my oesophagus a little, which also makes wine … Read More
Domain Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2012 $39 (5 stars)
If a wine could actually shout from the rooftops “I’m Central Otago pinot noir dangnabbit!!” then this would be that wine. I love the lift of rhubarb leaf, juicy cherry, dark plum and tea leaf loveliness in every sniff and the fact that all these flavours osmose onto the palate just adds an extra bit … Read More
Kaimira Estate Nelson Syrah 2011 $38 (3.5 stars)
A highly savoury wine, with aromas of cured meats, black olive and peppercorn dominating the nose and then coursing through onto the palate. Rooibos tea, dark cocoa and just the most subtle hints of rhubarb and leather also soak through, leaving a richly complex mouthfeel behind. Mellow and warming on the finish. Sip with: Lamb … Read More
The Boneline Waipara Sauvignon Blanc 2015 $23 (4 stars)
The Tutton family are deeply connected to the Waipara River which runs through their property and has, over the years, offered up a smorgasbord of fossils. The Riverbone has a Megalodon tooth on the label, a tooth as big as owner Vic Tutton’s hand “It’s so lovely with perfect striations down each side of the … Read More
Seresin OSIP Organic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2016 $24 (3.5 stars)
Named after an ‘extraordinary’ family relative of Seresin’s founder Michael Seresin, the OSIP wines are the result of a decade-long project to remove additions in the winery. Winemaker Clive Dougall has used wild yeasts, and absolutely no sulphur or other non-naturals have been added. Seresin have been producing certified organic and biodynamically grown wines since … Read More
NOW by Paxton McLaren Vale Organic Shiraz 2016 $30 (4 stars)
The name stands for ‘Natural Organic Wine’ and in this these guys have been making organic, preservative-free wines since WAY before it was cool. Here you’ve got a bright, vibrant, floral-fest of a shiraz which has a long, liquorice-like layer through the mid-palate. It’s not sweet and jammy as many South Australian shiraz’s can be … Read More
Wine column week beginning Sat 19 Nov, 2016
After last weeks’ mention of ‘natural’ wines which have had no additives, I’ve had a number of readers contact me to ask what the “Contains Preservative 220” statement on most bottles of wine actually means. Preservative 220 is Sulphur Dioxide, otherwise known as SO2, and despite alcohol being a natural preservative, most wine has had … Read More
Ka Tahi East Coast Pinot Gris 2015 $19.99 (3.5 stars)
Worried that you’re going to get something sweet and boring? For years I was too, but today Kiwi winemakers are super-skilled at creating clean, lean, deliciously dry and delicately fragrant pinot gris and these are the styles I love to look out for. This is a new brand crafted by Rod McDonald’s team at his … Read More
Cottier Estate Gladstone Pinot Gris 2013 $17.50 (5 stars)
The rocky old Ruamahanga River in Gladstone nourishes Cottier Estate’s vineyards and helps them create classically full, generous pinot gris like this. Pinot gris that’s packed with pear, ripe juicy rose apple, nashi and a squeak of quince all crash across the tastebuds in this beautifully balanced aromatic white. Fat and sassy on the palate, … Read More