Jenny Dobson Florence Hawke’s Bay Fiano 2023 $45
Having been involved with crafting Fiano from fruit grown in tiny amounts in the Bridge Pa subregion since 2010, Jenny Dobson is easily New Zealand’s foremost expert on Fiano production. Fiano is an ancient, white grape with its spiritual home in Campania in Southern Italy. Still, it also grows in Sicily and is famous for its distinct floral intensity, layers of freshly cut fennel and apple, buckets of citrus and hints of creamy, nutty notes alongside a lengthy, energetic finish. This is a delicious example. A wine that’ll appeal to anyone partial to rich, textural, vibrant white wine that’s fabulous with food. “Florence” was the name of Jenny’s paternal grandmother. “Florence” was also the name of MY paternal grandmother. So that’s a nice thing.
Video Review Here:
Technical notes from Jenny:
The first Fiano vines were planted in New Zealand by Bryce Campbell in 2010 with a second planting in 2022. The soils are old volcanic soils laid down by the Taupo eruptions layered with gravels and loam from the old Ngaruroro riverbed.
I grow the grapes following organic and sustainable practices. I aim to create biodiversity in the vineyard encouraging wildflower growth, planting native and exotic trees. The water holding capacity of the pumice, which abounds in the soil, allows me to dry farm the vineyard.
Fiano is a late ripening variety and I hand pick in April . 90% of the grapes are whole bunch pressed with 10% having 24 hours skin maceration before pressing. Fermentation is slow and steady. The new wine is left on lees for several months post ferment with regular stirring to enhance the natural textural qualities of the grape variety.