Ayrburn Whimsy Central Otago Pinot Noir 2020 $45 
Inky-dark in the glass, this wine might be named ‘whimsy’ but it’s a seriously stocky, in-for-the-long-haul style with stacks of savoury complexity, rich spice layers, baked cherry and black tea. It’s a bit of a beast, but I like that about it. Deeply rich and beefy, it’s a wine that’s aching for wild mushroom risotto or roast lamb studded with rosemary.
