Brockenchack Jack Harrison Eden Valley Shiraz 2018 $69

Made from 54yo grapevines by the ultra-talented Joanne Irvine, Brockenchack’s flagship shiraz is named after the grandson of founders Trevor and Marilyn Harch. Jack is the company viticulturist and is training to become their future winemaker. So no pressure then! Put all your thoughts of shiraz being jammy, sweet and cuddly aside because the Jack Harrison is an exercise in muscular elegance. With skyscraper structure, a core of dark blue and black fruits, charred oak, cocoa and dried herbs, this shiraz is iron fist in velvet glove material. If you drink it now, make sure you get out the good, swirlable glasses and decant if you can. Otherwise, tuck it away until 2033 if you’re disciplined enough.