Wairiki The Matriarch Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2021 $31

Grown in the famous Mangatahi soils west of Hastings, where the vine roots curl around enormous stones known as ‘Mangatahi swedes’, this chardonnay is a rare thing indeed. Just three barrels were made of this, the flagship chardonnay of the Linn family, only made when the fruit is exceptional. Handpicked and whole bunch pressed, this wine has undergone a wild ferment and its malolactic ferment while in barrel, which has leant a rich, toasty, slightly creamy character and an undertone of roast fennel, soft peach and a hint of almond. The acidity is cleansing and adds texture to the dry, mineral-edged finish.