Mills Reef Elspeth Hawke’s Bay Methode Traditionnelle NV  $39.95

Wow. Golden in the glass and heaving with heavenly scorched brioche, toasted almond and grilled citrus, it’s got all the hallmarks of thoroughbred champagne at a fraction (and I mean fraction) of the price. Generously proportioned, stacked with baked apple, rising dough notes, soothing caramelised characters and tantalising, nutty textures, it’s impressive.

Mills Reef