Porters Estate Martinborough Cuvée Madeleine 2015 $60

I thought I was across all the players in New Zealand’s fizz-mos-phere however, this gorgeous thing snuck up from nowhere, slapped my chops with lemony loveliness and walked me down the wild side in seconds flat.  Winegrower John Porter is also a busy Wellington lawyer; white-collar or seedy underbelly, he sees it all, and attention to detail wins every time.  Detail and delicacy, that’s what’s in this wine.  Clean apple notes merge with pillowy textures making it fresh, feisty, and fierce with fish tacos.  Drink now – 2025.