Elephant Hill Reserve Hawke’s Bay Syrah 2017 $54

If anyone knows how to make exceptional syrah, it’s Steve Skinner. He’s been shepherding Elephant Hill’s fruit from their Bridge Pa, Gimblett Gravels and home vineyard at Te Awanga into the bottle for many many years and his skill is on show here. Blueberry, black pepper, dried herb, smoke and cocoa characters abound, while soft, textural tannins boost the elegance-factor and make it an impressive thing to sip.