Unison Gimblett Gravels Rocky Syrah 2017 $60

Syrah lovers will launch into a happy dance I’m sure, as soon as they sip this new release from one of Hawke’s Bay’s most acclaimed syrah haus’s.  The ‘Rocky’ is testament to how elegant and statuesque cool-climate syrah can be when built well.  The deep, ancient riverbed gravels force the vines to work hard for moisture, with every skerrick of energy going into tiny, inky-black berries which contain intense pepper, violet, graphite, and blueberry-driven goodness.  The acidity is fresh, flirtatious and the tannins softly grainy, while the finish just does not let up.  It’s a lovely thing to drink.