Mahurangi River Winery Field of Grace Reserve Matakana Chardonnay 2014 $54

Incredibly glossy and golden when poured, this chardonnay from a tiny corner of Matakana is absolutely roaring into life after sitting quietly for a couple of years just building its confidence and character.  Complex smoke and toast notes merge with roast stonefruit, lemon pith and grilled grapefruit on the nose and palate to create a juicy, intensely complex chardonnay that is headscratchingly delicious.  How this wine is not hugely famous among chardonnay fandom (in New Zealand at least) is beyond me.  Licks of popcorn and nougat knead the acidity into place and make this wine stretchy and sexy to sip.