Tohu Whenua Awa Marlborough Chardonnay 2017 $39.99
Planted in December 2010, this vineyard gets a little bit of ‘sandblasting’ and occasional ‘deer damage’ from the wind according to Mondo Kopua, vineyard manager. The smokiness comes from a full-solids ferment in barrel 50/50 wild + innoculated. It sits for 10 months in 20% new oak and I’m loving the struck match, flinty characters – yet they’re very nicely integrated as opposed to being overpowering in any way. Hints of popcorn, buttered crumpet, roast stonefruit and caramelised spices abound. The acidity is slippery and fresh and it’s a very pretty, very sippable chardonnay. “This was the worst vintage I’ve ever dealt with in my life” says Bruce Taylor “we had slip skin and had to pick everything in two days – so I am intensely relieved that we were able to craft chardonnay like this from such a crazy season”.
