Osawa’s chardonnay vines send their roots down deep into the soils on a river terrace about 30 minutes west of Hastings, where the boulders along the rows are so big they’re called “Mangatahi Swedes” by the local farmers. With aromas of grilled grapefruit, struck match, flinty intensity and lemony notes – it’s hard to pull the glass away from your nose for long enough to taste it. Do it though, and you’ll be rewarded with smoked stonefruit flavours, nutty notes and a long, textural finish.