My eldest daughter turned 18 recently and I had the notion that maybe we’d each enjoy a glass of something glamourous to celebrate. We were now both grown up ladies after all. I splashed out on Champagne, popped it in the fridge and asked her later that day if she’d like to have a glass. She asked if I’d buy a box of some berry-flavoured, wine and vodka-based, puke-inducer instead. To which I shrieked “absolutely not!” and so she said I was a snob and stomped out of the room and then we both sulked. Like I said. Grown up ladies.
She sulked over her cellphone, and I sulked over a glass of Giesen Marlborough Single Vineyard Selection Clayvin Pinot Noir. Looking at the bottle I wondered if I’ve ever written about the difference between an ‘Estate’ wine and one labelled ‘Single Vineyard’ before. They mean quite different things and it’s quite a mature and sensible topic, therefore probably not one I’ve covered in the past.
Most people assume that a bottle of wine comes from a single winery, probably surrounded by vineyards and it’s those vineyards that provide all the wine for that label. However there are 2005 vineyards in New Zealand and only 500 wineries, so it’s safe to say that much of our wine comes from multi-vineyard blends. In New Zealand an ‘estate’ wine can come from many vineyards, either owned by the winery or by other contracted growers. So Lorkin Estate Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay for example, could contain fruit from a number of different Hawke’s Bay vineyards. They’re usually cheaper to buy and are designed to be more indicative of the flavours of the wider wine region. A ‘single vineyard’ wine on the other hand, will be made from fruit grown in one particular vineyard and must not blended with fruit from other sites. Single vineyard wines are designed to speak of a particular place, a particular climate, soil type and specific human intervention. A ‘single vineyard’ wine doesn’t even necessarily need to be owned by the winery that bottles it. It can just be a special site that wine brands compete against each other to secure fruit from.
Giesen Single Vineyard Selection Ridge Block Marlborough Pinot Noir 2014 $62 (4.5 stars)
This is a sleeping giant of a wine, newly released and stirring slowly. I love the ruby colour and aromas of blackberry bush, rosehip tea, wild cherry and cocoa. To drink it’s gently unfurling, revealing forest floor and leafy lushness. Crushed red currants, violets and baking spices on the palate lead to vibrant, agile tannins and zesty length of flavour – meaning it’s great drinking now, but I suggest disciplining yourself and stashing some away for another 4-5 years. You’ll thank me.
www.glengarrywines.co.nz
Giesen Single Vineyard Selection Clayvin Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013 $56.99 (5 stars)
Fact. Clayvin is the most famous pinot noir vineyard in the country and it’s now lovingly looked after by Marcel Giesen. Perfumed with red rose, fresh-cut tamarillo, red cherry, wild-grown herbs and a hint of pepper, this is sultry elegance personified. The feeling I get tasting this wine is very similar to how I feel looking at pictures of a 22 year old Elvis Presley in his army uniform. All shook up.
www.finewinedelivery.co.nz
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Here’s three juicy sips to kickstart your week…
Ash Ridge Premium Cabernet Merlot 2016 $31 (4 stars)
From what’s fast becoming known as a very elegant vintage in Hawke’s Bay, comes a cabernet dominant blend that reflects the iron-rich, red gravels of the Bridge Pa triangle beautifully. Made by the super-talented Lauren Swift, this bold, spicy blend has hefty red fruited aromatics, hints of smoke and soy and boasts a long, stylishly structured mouthfeel. The tannins have youthful chew and grip, meaning it’s a great contender for the cellar -but if you lack discipline, it’s great drinking now.
www.ashridgewines.co.nz
Tamellini Soave DOC Costeggiola 2016 $25 (4 stars)
100% garganega (gar-gar-nay-gah) grapes have been used to tizzy together this stunningly fresh, medium bodied, citrus-saturated white wine from the appellation of Soave (soh-ah-vay). I love the luscious lemongrassy layers, white pepper, rich, chalky characters and it’s marathon-like finish. I also love that every sip is like hanging on to the last of summer. Great stuff!
www.stvincentscave.co.nz
Sartori di Verona Erfo Brut NV $22 (4 stars)
In the late 1800’s Sartori’s trattoria was the place to frequent if you were a merchant, trader or weary traveller hunting for hearty food, good wine and a comfy place to camp. As the family concentrated more on wine, hospitality remained their focus, which is why their prosecco’s are especially friendly. Wild apple and acacia aromas with lemony, creamy characters, a biscuity backbone and cloud-like complexity – it’s outstanding with sweetcorn and basil polenta, cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella.
www.finewinedelivery.co.nz
