You’re not in Montana now Doctor Ropata…
Last week Bob Campbell MW, (one of New Zealand’s most influential and experienced wine commentators) discovered that the 2017 vintage of the iconic Montana Sauvignon Blanc was not (as it has been for decades) from Marlborough, not even from New Zealand in fact. It was from Australia. Australian sauvignon blanc (with ‘Australia’ written on the back label) inside a bottle that New Zealander’s have treasured since the first Montana sauvignon blanc was bottled back in 1979. The world quickly developed an unquenchable thirst for it and kiwis embraced this liquid punch in the face with gusto. We loved the eruption of capsicum, passionfruit and grassy, lemony, herbaceousness because it was a taste sensation and as soon as supermarkets began selling wine, we never had to pay more than ten bucks a bottle. Here’s where the problem lies.
Montana is a brand owned by French beverages behemoth Pernod-Ricard, a company that owns many other ‘local’ brands like Church Road, Longridge and Stoneleigh and they employ a large number of New Zealanders. I agree with Bob in that using Australian grapes and writing “Australia” on the back label is perfectly legal, however the all-important front label has quietly done away with the words ‘Marlborough’ and ‘New Zealand’ and to me, that’s deceptive. The country of origin of anything we put into our bodies should be on the front label in plain view. I remember back in 2010 when Pernod-Ricard NZ rebranded all the ‘Montana’ wines (except the ‘Montana Classics’) to Brancott Estate. A huge deal was made about how they were keeping the name ‘Montana’ for their $10 Marlborough sauvignon blanc because it was “such a kiwi icon”. In seven years she’s all over rover and it’s not just the sauvignon, it’s the pinot gris and pinot noir also. My view is that while Pernod-Ricard have been sneaky and I don’t like it, the fact that it’s happened is actually our own fault as consumers. We have bought this situation on ourselves. By insisting on being able to buy ‘local’ wines for $10 or less and by constantly being sucked into the downward spiral of supermarket discounting, we have forced our producers to find cheaper fruit from elsewhere to satisfy our demand. Today New Zealand wineries can’t produce a great bottle of wine for that price and survive. Pernod-Ricard NZ’s managing director Kevin Mapson said the move to change the source of its grapes was a result of increased demand and the rising cost of New Zealand grapes. “By sourcing grapes from Australia, we can continue to make wines of the quality Montana consumers expect at the same price point”. ‘Quality’ is debateable because I can’t say I’ve ever been wowed by an Australian sauvignon blanc or even mildly impressed, but Mapson is right. Cast your minds back to high school economics and the concept of economies of scale. New Zealand is essentially two tiny islands and all the good grape growing land has already been got. We simply don’t have hundreds of thousands of extra hectares of land suitable for vineyards. We are a narrow, mountainous land of climatic extremes due to our isolation in the middle of the Pacific. The tiny pockets of land where grapes grow well, produce small amounts of incredibly pure fruit that create world class wines, wines which command premium prices overseas. It is expensive to grow grapes here, far costlier than in other countries. It makes no financial sense for a winery to put expensive fruit in a cheap bottle. To keep kiwis employed, they have to be profitable. New Zealand wine brands using fruit from other countries in their wines isn’t a new thing. Some of those brands are owned by international parent companies that operate vineyards and wineries here i.e. Constellation Brands, Pernod-Ricard and Treasury Wine Estates. I’ve had stand up arguments with people who say “Until New Zealand can produce a bottle of red wine as good as this Jacob’s Creek Shiraz for under ten bucks – then I’m sticking with the Aussies” and I say “You’ll be long in your grave, because it’s never going to happen. While you’re too stingy to part with an extra $5 or $10, you’re short-changing your taste buds to so much incredible kiwi wine out there and your hard-earned money is going overseas”. So you could shrug your shoulders and keep buying cheap, boring, imported wine from the supermarket and lining the pockets of overseas firms that have absolutely no interest or investment in New Zealand (40% of the wine we drink here in NZ is imported). OR you keep buying that Montana Sauvignon Blanc from Australia for $9.95 and stop it with the petulant hissying because now you understand that it is what it is. The wine is never going to taste the same, but at least you’ll be keeping some New Zealanders employed. Or you could do what you should have done ages ago, and that’s realise that delicious wine costs, therefore try to budget an extra few dollars per bottle to treat yourself to something lovely and local. You’ll be drinking less, but drinking better and you’ll be keeping more New Zealanders employed and in business.
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Think pink for Valentines Day
Spade Oak Heart of Gold Gisborne Tempranillo Rosé $23 (4.5 stars)
This is such a pretty, trout-pink coloured wine in the glass and on the nose it bursts with raspberry marshmallow, watermelon and hints of cherry. There’s even a touch of creaming soda and tamarillo in there too. Succulent, saucy and served chilled with a bowl full of bhuja mix it’s just perfect. Or if you’re opting to be a tad more stylish, try it with slivers of cold smoked salmon. Gorgeous.
www.spadeoak.co.nz
Veuve Clicquot Champagne Rosé NV $74.99 (4 stars)
This is the 200th year since Madame Clicquot became the first to create a blended rosé from her finest Bouzy reds and her classic champagne. If the aromas of cranberry bagel, rising dough and cashew don’t woo you, then the long, generously-tempered mouthfeel, pinprick effervescence, creamy mousse and subtle raspberry notes on the finish will have your jaw on the floor for sure. In their seventh year of sponsorship of the NZ Polo Open (Sunday Feb 18, Clevedon), Clicquot is also introducing a ‘Colourama’ Marquee which will debut fantastic fusion of art, interactive elements, food and of course champagne, all brought to life by creative Kiwi women Karla Goodwin of Bluebells cakery, potter Yon Kavas and artist Jen Sievers.
www.thegoodwineco.co.nz
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All you need is love? Err wrong. Wine. All you need is wine…
Palliser Estate Martinborough Methode Traditionnelle 2014 $40 (4 stars)
A veritable aristocrat amongst local bubbles, the new release methode from Palliser has lovely lifted aromas of rising dough, almond meal and lemon shortbread alongside a smooth, rich, generously textured palate. It’s a fresh, frisky fizz with tiny, elegant bubbles, creamy mousse and a long, tongue-tingling finish. Stylish and sophisticated sparkles that’ll win friends and influence people.
www.palliser.co.nz
Two Rivers Brookby Hill Marlborough Pinot Gris 2017 $19.99 (4 stars)
The 2016 won a gold medal at the 2017 NZ International wine Show because it seduced the judges with its nashi and nectarine nuances, prickly, sexy texture, sweet, ripe perfume and cleansing length of flavour. I reckon this new version is just as delicious. Made by the dangerously talented (and not shabby looking) Dave Clouston, this gris has a lovely mouthfilling texture and apple-like freshness on the finish. It’s gumnumbingly good with roast duck, lychee and mint salad.
www.tworivers.co.nz
Ata Rangi Crimson Martinborough Pinot Noir 2016 $36 (4 stars)
The team at Ata Rangi are head-over-kite nuts about pohutukawa trees and re-establishing native rata in the lower North Island where it once flourished, henceforth, sales of every bottle of this succulent, juicy pinot go towards the Project Crimson charitable conservation trust. Tamarillo, spicy cherry and black quava burst forth on the nose and palate, the tannins are deliciously dusty and it’s plummy and darn yummy.
www.atarangi.co.nz
