One of the bazillions of things that I love about wine, is that when I’m doing my tastings sure as eggs something’s going to surprise me. Something will step up, stand out and shake the old foundations of what I think is stylistically ‘normal’. I love that I’m seeing WAY more sauvignon blanc that’s been flung around a bit, put through wild ferments, stainless steel barrels, all manner of lees-stirring regimes, a wee bit of malolactic fermentation or maturation in things like acacia wood puncheons. I love that winemakers are looking more to create ‘styles’ instead of bottles full of the same old, bog-standard, box-ticking varietal characters. I love seeing oak aged, skin-fermented pinot gris and pinot noir rosés that’ve been fermented with wild yeasts and aged for years in old barrels to create creamy, pink crabapple and cashewy styles. Normally I’m dead set on my chardonnay being just that, 100% chardonnay – however I’ve been enjoying some really interesting blends of chardonnay and viognier, chardonnay and chenin blanc and the like. Gone are the days when you only stuck with the ‘permitted’ Bordeaux red varieties in your blends – I’ve tasted some sensational smorgasbords of cabernet, merlot, petit verdot, cabernet franc, malbec and, shock horror, syrah. Blank Canvas wines in Marlborough have even taken to blending a decent splash of grüner veltliner (the signature white grape of Austria) with their punchy, peppery, Hawke’s Bay syrah – which is really different and it’s also darn delicious.
If you’ve never partaken in the hedonistic pleasure of a blended white, then best you get amongst the very next one you see. I’m a huge fan of the Tahbilk Roussanne Marsanne Viognier from Victoria, the Yealands Marlborough PGR (pinot gris/gewürztraminer/riesling) and the Bellbird Spring Waipara Home Block White (Pinot Gris/Riesling/Muscat/Gewürztraminer) – give them a go or forever kick yourself.
Fairhall Downs Single Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2016 $23.75 (3.5stars)
From their Wrekin Road vineyard, comes this intensely herbaceous sauvignon, with loads of crushed nettles and a wave of jalapeno on the nose before morphing into a soft, basil, passionfruit and lemony layers in the mid-palate. It’s a plump, tropical sauvignon that’ll win with mussel fritters.
www.fairhalldowns.co.nz
Mahana Davey’s Lease Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2015 $42 (4stars)
Winemaker Michael Glover has thrown so many ‘non-sauvignon’ techniques at this wine, it’s now something that might be sauvignon, but not as we know it. Bright, glossy, golden and boasting a lean, smoky, watercressy nose and a palate layered with almond meal, celery seed, bay and tarragon characters. A combo of French oak and acacia puncheons have been used to ferment the sauvignon hot, with wild yeasts to create aromas, flavours and textures that are totally beyond the realm of ‘comfortable’ sauvignon. Only the brave need apply.
www.mahana.nz
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Why not spring for something exotic this week, push the envelope, pash the antelope, whatever…it’s totally up to you
Huia Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2015 $32 (4.5stars)
I love the white pepper, musk, honeysuckle and Turkish delight tones that wash across the palate with every sip of this delicious, organically produced gewurztraminer. Highly perfumed and pretty, it’s spicy, succulent and offers something different and luscious with every sip. It’s a star with spicy, sizzling black pepper and garlic prawns.
Tasca d’Almerita Guarnaccio Sicilia Perricone 2014 $24.99(4stars)
I have never tasted wine made from the Perricone grape before, and I’ve got to say it’s a bit of a revelation. Ripe, robust and seriously fruity, it’s a whopper of a wine at 15% alcohol, yet it’s deliciously balanced and integrates with a core of cocoa, earthy spices, bouquet garni notes and a dusting of black pepper. The tannins are elastic and have just the right amount of chew.
Girofle Rosato Negroamaro 2015 $16.95 (4stars)
Trout-pink and showing super-pretty, rose-gold hues in the glass, it’s just a lovely little Italian rosé that bursts with yellow plum, wild cherry, raspberry and soft, musky characters. On the palate it’s got a softly gripping texture, packets of punch and a taut, textural finish. Tangy, vibrant and lengthy – it’s definitely a new favourite for me.
www.moorewilsons.co.nz
