After last weeks’ mention of ‘natural’ wines which have had no additives, I’ve had a number of readers contact me to ask what the “Contains Preservative 220” statement on most bottles of wine actually means. Preservative 220 is Sulphur Dioxide, otherwise known as SO2, and despite alcohol being a natural preservative, most wine has had this preservative added as a protection against oxidation and bacterial spoilage. It’s a practice that’s been around for aeons and sulphur dioxide solutions can be added to grapes and wine at all sorts of stages in the winemaking process, from during harvest through to the final bottling. What sulphur dioxide does, is join with potential spoilage compounds found in the wine to ‘bind them’. If these compounds aren’t ‘bound’ then they can create stinky, unattractive aromas, flavours and colours. The level of sulphur dioxide is measured as parts per million (ppm) or milligrams per kilogram (mg/kg): tiny quantities basically. NZ Food standards allow for a maximum of just a couple of hundred ppm in dry wine. For those tempted to freak out, your average dried apricot can contain up to 3000ppm SO2. If wine is certified ‘organic’, the total SO2 level is usually around the 120ppm mark (although different countries allow different levels) and sometimes the levels are different depending on whether the wine is red or white. For most people concerned with health and allergy considerations, it’s the ‘free sulphur’ level which is the main concern. Free sulphur is any sulphur that’s not bound. Sensitivity to sulphites can manifest in different ways, some people can experience shortness of breath, a queasy tummy, hives and itching and flushing.
The problem with calling a wine ‘preservative free’ or having ‘no added preservative’, is that SO2 is also a natural by-product of fermentation. So even if none is ‘added’, minute amounts could still very well end up in the wine naturally. There are many factors influencing the amount of preservative needed or added. For example the higher the alcohol, the less preservative needed because alcohol is a natural preservative. Red wines also have higher levels of tannins, which, having been extracted from the grape skins during fermentation, and tannins are natural preservatives. But if you’re at all concerned with sulphite levels in wine, here are two that just may calm your farm a little…they’re also organic, vegan and vegetarian-friendly.
NOW by Paxton McLaren Vale Organic Shiraz 2016 $30 (4 stars)
The name stands for ‘Natural Organic Wine’ and in this these guys have been making organic, preservative-free wines since WAY before it was cool. Here you’ve got a bright, vibrant, floral-fest of a shiraz which has a long, liquorice-like layer through the mid-palate. It’s not sweet and jammy as many South Australian shiraz’s can be – in fact there’s a fresh, earthy core and it has a lovely fleshy softness to the finish.
www.finewinedelivery.co.nz
Seresin OSIP Organic Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2016 $24 (3.5 stars)
Named after an ‘extraordinary’ family relative of Seresin’s founder Michael Seresin, the OSIP wines are the result of a decade-long project to remove additions in the winery. Winemaker Clive Dougall has used wild yeasts, and absolutely no sulphur or other non-naturals have been added. Seresin have been producing certified organic and biodynamically grown wines since aeons ago, and this is a sauvignon that’ll definitely appeal to those who prefer softer acidity, a hint of seabreeze, lemongrass, smoke and a subtle, peppery watercressy texture on the finish.
www.seresin.co.nz
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Looking for something a little left of centre this week? Here are three stars from our southern climes…
The Boneline Waipara Sauvignon Blanc 2015 $23 (4 stars)
The Tutton family are deeply connected to the Waipara River which runs through their property and has, over the years, offered up a smorgasbord of fossils. The Riverbone has a Megalodon tooth on the label, a tooth as big as owner Vic Tutton’s hand “It’s so lovely with perfect striations down each side of the tooth and the enamel still intact”. Marzipan, zesty lime, basil, passionfruit and a plethora of tropical terrificness ensues.
Sip with: salt cod & marscapone risotto.
Kaimira Estate Nelson Syrah 2011 $38 (3.5 stars)
A highly savoury wine, with aromas of cured meats, black olive and peppercorn dominating the nose and then coursing through onto the palate. Rooibos tea, dark cocoa and just the most subtle hints of rhubarb and leather also soak through, leaving a richly complex mouthfeel behind. Mellow and warming on the finish.
Sip with: Lamb and Rosemary sausages
Domain Road Bannockburn Pinot Noir 2012 $39 (5 stars)
If a wine could actually shout from the rooftops “I’m Central Otago pinot noir dangnabbit!!” then this would be that wine. I love the lift of rhubarb leaf, juicy cherry, dark plum and tea leaf loveliness in every sniff and the fact that all these flavours osmose onto the palate just adds an extra bit of joy. Graeme and Gillian Crosbie are absolute artisans and are ferociously fixated to detail, meaning the care they’ve taken crafting this wine is borderline OCD in the tastiest possible way…
Sip with: slow-roasted pheasant
