Smoky Sauvignon from the South
A package arrived on Thursday morning from Greystone wines (always exciting) and inside it housed three bottles of the same wine. On closer inspection they all represented different vintages of one of winemaker Dom Maxwell’s favourite styles – their Barrell Fermented Sauvignon Blanc. “We’ve been fermenting our sauvignon wild since 2010” says Dom. “Not only do we love its ability to pair with food (oysters in particular are awesome at this time of year), but we also think it can live a lot longer than many people would expect [from sauvignon blanc]”, and he’s absolutely right. To prove the point, he’d sent a bottle of their 2011, their 2014 and their shiny new 2016 for me to taste. The 2011 had just 25% barrel fermentation, and after 6 years, it’s looking gorgeously golden in the glass. The acidity is still razor-sharp and there are layers of sweet pea, smoke, lemon zest, pepper and passionfruit curd wrapped up in a plush, fleshy finish. The 2014, with its 90% barrel ferment component was still daisy-fresh, highly herbaceous, rich, juicy and rocking redcurrant, passionfruit and capsicum characters. The acidity was lipsmackingly lovely and I loved the pea-pod and pepper notes on the finish. The 2016 was 100% barrel fermented and it’s an absolute banger.
It’s a style that is so vastly different from what we usually know of sauvignon blanc, that it tends to polarise people. The classic kiwi sauvignon blanc that won the hearts of the wine world, tends to be a smash up of passionfruit, lemon, lime, white peach, crushed green herbs, capsicum and cats pee, with tonnes of racy, steely acidity and a zippy, squint-inducing finish. It’s fermented in stainless steel tanks with fruit-enhancing, super-efficient, man made yeasts and kept clean the whole way through the process to retain all that tangy, ‘green-ness’.
Yet good sauvignon blanc fruit can absolutely stand a bit of experimentation, a bit of barrel fermentation with wild yeasts, lees stirring, malolactic ferments and barrel maturation. I’ve adored this smoky, creamy, ultra-complex style since I first tried Sacred Hill’s Sauvage back in the late 1990’s and then Cloudy Bay’s Te Koko. Clearview Estate’s Reserve Sauvignon is a great example, as is Hunter’s Kaho Roa and Blind River’s Tekau.
Greystone Waipara Barrel Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2015 $22 (4.5stars)
100% of the sauvignon blanc juice was fermented in French oak before a smidge (10%) was put through a malolactic ferment to add a creamy, textural layer. After maturation in barrel for another months before being bottled back in December, you’d expect this sauvignon to be seriously toasty. However it’s remarkably herbaceous, floral and fresh, with punchy lime and green apple notes, white peach and lemongrassy notes shining through over a mineral-edged finish. Delicious stuff indeed.
www.greystonewines.co.nz
Pegasus Bay Waipara Sauvignon Semillon 2015 $31 (4.5 stars)
This rare-for-here blend is now a North Canterbury icon, and it’s definitely one of those try-before-you-die styles. Crafted by Mat Donaldson from vines now 30+ yrs old, both the sauvignon blanc and the semillon parcels were fermented with wild yeasts and 15% of the sauvignon went into brand new French oak, while the semillon stayed in older barrels producing an incredibly complex wine. Citrus oil, elderflower, flint and lemongrass burst across the nose and palate, leaving a slice of sword-like acidity, chalky minerality and a long, smoky, textural finish.
www.pegasusbay.com
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Let’s get amongst reds of all persuasions this week as we steam our way into Autumn….
Karikari Esate Calypso Northland Merlot 2014 $27 (3.5stars)
If you were looking for New Zealand’s northernmost vineyard then you’ve come to the right place. The heat bakes those vines and the breezes which gust in from the coast directly below the peninsula keep the bunches dry and clean. Winemaker Alan Collinson uses wild, natural yeasts to ferment the juice, which adds to the funky, smoky, dry, leather and dark berry characters. It’s savoury enough to be enjoyed with rich, spicy, cheesy, meaty nachos.
www.karikariestate.co.nz
Pierre et Papa Rose 2015 $16.99 (4 stars)
This is an unusual rose made of 100% cinsault grapes grown on old vines snaking across the Languedoc in southern France. I love the juicy intensity of this wine, the raspberry, cherry and white pepper flavours and its pomegranate punch on the finish. It’s a rose that offers masses of character and a long, tangy textural mouthfeel. There’s even a splash of rockmelon and cherry in there too. Enjoy with hot smoked salmon smeared on mini-toasts.
Unison Gimblett Gravels Rocky Red 2014 $22 (4 stars)
Phil and Terry Horn have absolutely immersed themselves in a Hawke’s Bay life in wine ever since taking ownership of the 6ha, Gimblett Gravels icon Unison Vineyard in 2008. With the help of expert winemaker Jenny Dobson, they have elevated the quality of their reds to stratospheric levels. This ‘Rocky’ merlot cabernet blend follows the ‘Recovery’ and ‘Recession’ reds of the last decade, an easy-drinking, personality-packed, plum, prune and spice soaked wine that’ll be divine with classic shepherd’s pie.
www.unisonvineyard.co.nz
