Highly scented and precise on the nose, fresh-cut pear, poached quince and powdery, talc-like characters leap from the glass.  It’s also a very full, generous gris, soaking the palate with pipfruit, honeysuckle and spice.  Don’t chill this down too much or you’ll stifle all those fruit layers.  Sip with bacon-wrapped dates as a nibbly treat.

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