It’s amazing to think of how our winescape has changed in the last 20 years. In 1996 I was all about the ‘buttery chards’ and the more squint-inducing and cats pee-like the sauvignon blanc, the better. In terms of ‘aromatic’ or ‘other’ white wines, I don’t think I’d even seen a pinot gris, let alone tasted one, and yet these days it’s a consumer colossus. Riesling was definitely around, but it was a struggle to find anything that wasn’t ultra sweet. I wasn’t actively working in wine back then, but I was actively experimenting, wanting to taste everything I could. 1998 was the first time I tasted viognier. A bottle arrived from Te Mata Estate into the wine shop I was working in and I immediately declared that the aromas of apricot, jasmine and citrus oil, combined with a rich, oily succulent mouthfeel were an absolute revelation and I’d never drink anything else. Ever.
Well that lasted all of a week until I went out for Thai food and my best mate bought along a bottle of gewürztraminer along as a BYO. Washing a forkful of green chicken curry down with a large glug of musky, spicy gewürztraminer rendered me, (and this doesn’t happen often), speechless. “Where has this combo been all my life?” I spluttered through strips of kaffir lime and coriander leaves. Now I can’t get enough. Of good gewürztraminer and Thai food that is. Another super-exciting G-word appeared a couple of years ago in the form of Grüner Veltliner. The signature white grape of Austria, Grüner Veltliner, GV or Groo-Vee (as it’s become known around the traps) has made itself happily at home in Godzone. It’s light, floral, citrus-driven and white flesh peachy characters work stunningly well with our hunger for Asian-style cuisine. In the last decade another two sneaky little European A-listers have also been creeping into our vineyards, Arneis from Italy and Albariño from Spain. Both are lipsmackingly delicate, with floral, stonefruit, saline and mineral layers, and yet they both have different acidity levels and textures, which makes them also fantastic with spicy seafood and chicken dishes. Yum, I’m definitely happy about this aromatics invasion.
The Winemaker’s Wife Waipara Pinot Gris 2015 $22 ★★★★★
Clean, tangy poached pear, quince and hints of mango manage to wash across the palate of this trophy winning pinot gris. Fresh and fulsome, it’s a multi-layered slippery yet satisfyingly fruity example that will be an absolutely winner with creamy smoked chicken and bacon pasta.
Yves Cuilleron Les Vignes d’à Côté Viognier 2014 $39 ★★★½
Intense orange oil, jasmine and apricot aromatics combine with crispy, crunchy acidity and a lovely lean, citrus spine. Crafted from fruit sourced from the commune of Chavanay, there’s even a hint of salty minerality on the finish from this highly respected Rhone producer. It’s an absolute star with prawns seared in herb butter. www.glengarrywines.co.nz
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Aronui Nelson Riesling 2014 $17.99 ★★★½
Nelson has the unofficial ‘Aromatics Capital of New Zealand’ title and wines like this reinforce that status. Scented with snappy green apple, lime and hint’s of honeysuckle, it’s a tangy, dry sip that’ll cleanse your tastebuds nicely, especially if you’re tucking into a creamy Waldorf salad. www.aronuiwines.co.nz
Brightwater Nelson Riesling 2015 $20 ★★★½
This is a bony, bareknuckle riesling that ping pings around the palate like an apple and mandarin flavoured comet. Fresh, plucky and has a deliciously dry texture on the finish. Drink with sweet and sour pork. www.brightwaterwine.co.nz
The Winemakers Wife Waipara Riesling 2015 $22 ★★★★½
Created by the McGeorge brothers, this scored a gold medal at the recent Canterbury Wine Awards where all the top wines are awarded according to how well they pair with food – so this is a cracker. Definitely on the juicy, tropical end of the spectrum, with a seam of lipsmacking lime running through the middle – it’s a well-priced wine that should be on every riesling lovers’ radar.
