Published NZME Regional Papers Tue 22 Mar 2016
It’s been a really interesting week where I’ve actually spent more time meeting wine ‘people’ than tasting new wines, and I’ve loved it. In our everyday lives where convenience reigns and most of our wine decisions are made on price in the supermarket – it’s easy to forget that there are hard working humans, families behind those bottles. There are people that stuck their necks out, bought land in places other people shook their heads at and had a crack at growing grapes. They made mistakes, expensive ones. Many felt like giving up and getting a ‘real’ job. But lucky for us they persevered. Without these pioneers we wouldn’t have a wine industry. Making wine is easy. Making ‘good’ wine is tough. And making ‘great’ wine is something that only happens when the stars align. When the right patch of dirt becomes available and the right clones of the right varieties are planted and manage to make it safely to a croppable age. When those vines come through seasonal threats of frost, famine and disease unscathed. The weather gods then have to shine for that crucial six-week harvest window where the sugar levels hit those sweet spots needed to impart the best flavours possible. Then it’s all up to the winemaker to not mess it up and don’t get me started on everything that can go pearshaped during that whole end of the deal.
There’s only one shot at getting wine right every 12 months. It’s not like milk or beer or biscuits or bread – where if you make a mistake, don’t fret, the cows will give you more milk tomorrow. You can brew more beer tomorrow. You can make another batch of better biscuits or bread tomorrow. It’s a crazy business that attracts cowboys and conservatives alike, personalities that can’t help but come through in the wine.
Henry’s Drive Dead Letter Office Padthaway Shiraz 2013 $22 ★★★★
Named after the postal clerks of old who had the authority to open ‘undeliverable’ mail. But they had to restrict themselves to only reading the mare minimum of info to expedite safe delivery. This glossy, purple-crimson wine delivers a message of vanilla, pencil shavings, plum and blackberry. It’s got heat and heft, hairy tannins and dusty, leathery length. She’s a big shiraz mate – chuck us another wombat pattie would ya… www.thegoodwine.co.nz
La Valentina Fiano 2013 $35 ★★★★
Fiano is an ancient grape traditionally grown in Campania, Southern Italy and the grapes for this example are grown in San Valentino, a hillside town in the province of Pescara. Every November, Pescara hosts the Festa dei Cornuti, a parade that either (and here’s where things get blurry) supports or snorts at men with adulterous wives. Yet purity prevails here. Creamy white peach, honeysuckle, crushed shells and white pepper on the nose, followed by lemon and almond flavours and smoky tones on the finish.
For stockists visit www.manifestowinecompany.co.nz
It’s all about the reds this week, pinot merlot and everything in between. These cooler afternoons, when the shadows are growing longer, any one of these smooth, velvety, cockle-warmers will do nicely…
Chalk Hill Sidetrack Mclaren Vale 2011 $27 ★★★½
This is a lush, spicy blend of shiraz and grenache which carries an exotic, slightly medicinal aroma that wraps around slightly earthy characters like prunes and pepper. There’s also a lovely smoky, nutty note and a long, gently savoury finish. Winemaker Jock Harvey fashioned the Sidetrack in tribute to his father, Chalk Hill’s founder John Harvey. Apparently John was a great starter but a rather useless finisher of things… Sip this wine with sticky lamb shanks on creamy polenta.
Fairmont Estate Admiral Hill Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2012 $25 ★★★
Lovers of old-school earthiness in their pinot will be all over this wine that’s produced from fruit sourced from the Gladstone Terraces. Made by Jon McNab, it’s a wine boasting aromas of ancient fallen tree trunks, lush forest floor notes, savoury cherry and shitake mushroom flavours. Combine those with silky tannins and a surprise kick of sneaky spice on the finish and wow. www.fairmontestate.co.nz
Main Divide Waipara Merlot Cabernet 2014 $20 ★★★½
If you thought only the North Island could create good Bordeaux-style reds then best you wrap your gums around this southern sip pronto. Highly fruity on the nose and all manner of raspberry, boysenberry and spicy, cocoa-like characters crash across the palate. Yet the mouthfeel and finish are easy and smooth. This wine could turn even the ropiest mince and cheese pie into something of Michelin-star proportions…Ok so that might be exaggerating slightly, but it is brilliant with hard cheeses. www.maindivide.com
