Published NZME Regional Newspapers Tue 1 Mar 2016
You’d be hard pressed these days to pick up a bottle of New Zealand wine and not see a ‘Sustainable New Zealand Winegrowing’ emblem on the back label.
It began when NZ Winegrowers launched the ambitious initiative back in 2007 after years of research into holistic wine production that began in the mid-1990’s. Essentially industry leaders recognised the incredible value of our natural resources and the need to protect the environments in which we create our greatest wines, and to ensure that their activities focused on continuous improvement economically, socially, environmentally both local and globally.
After being in the wine business now for 18 years, I can, hand on heart, say I believe nowhere is New Zealand’s image of caring for the land more fervently championed than on our vineyards; hence the almost universal adoption of the national sustainability programme.
In 2013 6.8% of our vineyard area was also certified organic, demonstrating an increased layer of commitment, and indeed our organic producers have the ambitious goal to increase certified organic plantings to 20% by 2020.
Under the sustainability policy, wine must be made from 100% certified grapes in fully certified winemaking facilities, and that certification must be through an independently audited programme. I think this is a great thing and it really sets New Zealand apart as an environmental leader internationally, and it’s not about getting all hippy-dippy on it either.
Ways that wineries are practically implementing sustainable practices range from things like restoring wetland areas on their properties by planting native flora and cleaning up waterways to encourage biodiversity in those areas. Others are actively avoiding using pesticides to encourage the presence of good insects that counter destructive pests such as mealy bug. Many are also using sheep to gently keep the grass down as opposed to heavy, fuel-powered mowers. Wineries in areas with marginal, fragile soils are actively increasing the organic matter present by letting the inter-row grass grow higher before mowing and applying compost-enriched bio-char. Others are focusing on energy efficiencies such as heat recovery systems to store waste heat from refrigeration for use in winemaking. Solar heating, night-air cooling and using winery wastewater for vineyard irrigation are also gaining traction. It’s easily the greenest time to be buying wine for sure.
Bodega Lagarde Guarda Blend 2012 $27 ★★★★
Sourced from one of the oldest bodega’s in the Llujan de Cuyo region of Mendoza in Argentina, this is a blend of 40% malbec, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 20% merlot and 10% syrah that’s been aged for 12 months in French oak. I love its black fruit intensity, liquorice and sandalwood notes alongside muscular, elastic tannins and the fact that it has a long, smoky finish. www.wanderlust.co.nz
Mishas Vineyard Dress Circle Central Otago Pinot Gris 2015 $27 ★★★★
If you think you’re ready to take your pinot gris appreciation to the next level then here’s your stepladder. Crafted by guru winemaker Olly Masters from vines growing on the vertigo-inducingly steep slopes of Bendigo overlooking Lake Dunstan, this wine has powerful roast pear, quince and apple strudel characters laced with white pepper and tangy stonefruit notes on the finish. Ultra crisp and juicy – it’s a treat. www.mishasvineyard.com
Here’s a wee smattering of some terrifically tangy white wines that’ll stretch your tastebuds a tad this week. So if you fancy maybe a saucy-sweet riesling that won’t send you sideways, vermentino with vavoom and sauvignon with smoky sass – then best you soak up these three sensations…
Kaimira Estate Nelson ‘Iti’ Brightwater Riesling 2015 $21 ★★★½
“Iti” indicates something ‘small’ in Maori, and the Kaimira team have used the word to reflect the positively petite alcohol level of just 10% in this wine. Exhuberant, punchy and packed with lemon, lime, mandarin and crunchy apple characters – there’s nothing ‘iti’ about the flavours here. This certified organic wine was created from fruit harvested early from their River Terrace vineyard to create an ultra-crisp and tangy taste sensation that’d work outstandingly well when sipped with slivers of hard, salty sheeps milk cheeses drizzled with honey. www.kaimirawines.co.nz
Cantina Gallura Piras Vermentino DOCG 2014 $22 ★★★½
Crafted from vermentino grapes grown in the granite soils of coastal Sardinia, this bone dry but beautifully structured wine has a huge lift of lemon and white peach on the nose followed by a slice of samurai-sword like acidity across the tongue with every sip. We don’t get to see a huge amount of vermentino here in New Zealand but I’m hoping that’ll change because it’s a superb style to sip with freshly steamed shellfish, sashimi or even Asian or Island style raw fish salads. www.artigianoimports.co.nz
Bellbird Spring ‘Block Eight’ Sauvignon Blanc 2013 $30 ★★★★★
This is a beautifully aromatic, organic sauvignon grown on Waipara’s ‘Glasnevin Gravels’. Made by Guy Porter, it shows soft, finely tuned oak influence, elderflower, white peach and lemony characters. It’s a stunning exercise in restraint with all the flavours and textures working in harmony, finishing with complex minerality and excellent persistence of flavour. When it comes to snazzy, complex sauvignon blanc, Waipara’s clearly working it. Sip with fish steamed with lemongrass and coriander. www.bellbirdspring.co.nz
