Published NZME Regional Newspapers Tue 8 Mar 2016
I’m hugely fortunate to be the wine writer for Dish, an absolutely fantastic food and wine magazine that launched back in 2004. A new issue hits the stands every two months and the April-May issue is traditionally when we focus on all things Italian. This will explain why you’ve seen more bottles of sangiovese, arneis, grillo, fiano, trebbiano, nebbiolo, barolo, vermentino, montepulciano, dolcetto, prosecco, negroamaro, valpolicella, barbera and chianti reviewed on these pages in recent weeks than in the history of this paper. I tasted so many superb examples, but not all of them could fit into the magazine, so there’s been a bit of natural spillover into this column.
Make no mistake mamas and papas, the massive influx of good Italian wine into this country has reached Pavarotti proportions. I’m not sure whether it’s because our exchange rate is suddenly really sexy right now, or whether some bright sparks out there realized that New Zealand’s ‘meat, three veg and a handle of sweet beer’ reputation was a complete myth and that we deserved to have our tastebuds challenged by seeing more wines from the other side of the world. Who knows? All I know is that when I put the call out to wine distributors and producers to send me any Italian-oriented wines for consideration for the magazine – I was not prepared for the tidal wave that flooded my ‘casa’ and ‘ufficio’. I was happily baffled. How was I not aware that this volume of choice existed? Tasting through them all has been an eye opener for me and while they haven’t all been flash – I’ve found some real gems.
Wine has been made in Italy for thousands of years, which is why it’s referred to as an ‘old world’ producer. New Zealand has been making wine for just over a century – so we’re ‘new world’ and we kiwi’s tend to like our wines bright, fresh and fruity, with pure, easily identifiable, ‘clean’ flavours. Whereas the old world wines are deeper, drier, more savoury and spicy. They have mystery and complexity and I’m really enjoying them.
*Some Italian Importers: www.artigianoimports.co.nz, www.mediterraneanfoods.co.nz, www.manifestowine.co.nz, www.glengarrywines.co.nz, www.federalmerchants.co.nz, www.eurovintage.co.nz, www.advintage.co.nz
Heron’s Flight Matakana Volare 2014 $29 ★★★★
It’s all Italian here at Heron’s Flight, with vineyard plantings of two thirds sangiovese and one third dolcetto – and it’s from these two varieties they make an entire portfolio of wines. Crafted by winemaker Stefano Guidi, the Volare is 90% dolcetto, which in Italian means “little sweet one” and the remainder is an injection of sangiovese, which means ‘Blood of Jupiter’. The wine has banging berry, smoke and cocoa characters which lend a ‘black forest’ layer of flavour which combined with fresh acidity, muscular tannins and nice density and structure – you get one heck on an earthy, satisfying wine. www.heronsflight.co.nz
Mahana Clays and Gravels Nelson Pinot Noir 2013 $42 ★★★★½
Nelson produces some of the best pinot noir in the country and this is a great example of why. I love the aromas of tea, baked strawberries, cherries and all manner of earthy-sweet smokiness. ‘Mahana’ means ‘warm’ in Maori and there’s definitely smoothness and warmth sewn into the seams of this organically produced wine. Full and savoury in the mouth, with lush, supple, elastic tannins and edged with just a sniff of cranberry and pepper – it’s quite something. www.mahana.co.nz
I’ve had a week of pretty much loving every bottle I’ve opened – and believe me, that does not happen often. It’s that whole “You’ve got to kiss a lot of frogs before you find your prince” analogy. Well let me introduce you to a right royal family…
Costa Tenute Nebbiolo d’alba DOC $29.90 ★★★★
Sourced from Italy’s southern Piedmonte region, this nebbiolo oozes clove, sarsaparilla and raspberry notes, yet in the mouth the tannins exhibit real grip and have good ‘chew factor’ alongside violet, pepper and solid fruit concentration. It’s a meaty red wine that’ll be just perfect the next time you make lasagna, or a rich, gooey ragu of some description. www.mediterraneanfoods.co.nz
Grove Mill Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2013 $22 ★★★★★
Gewurz-hounds ahoy! If you go gaga for classic lychee-soaked, ginger-kissed, peach-packed gewürztraminer, then this little gem will have you swooning. Especially when you find out it’s a mere $22. The perfume is exotic, the fruit sweet and tangy, and it feels mouthwatering and silky to drink. Why are you still reading this review? Get out there and grab a bottle! www.grovemill.co.nz
Beach House Gimblett Gravels Montepulciano 2013 $45 ★★★★★
I swear the wines made by the small but perfectly formed team at Beach House wines on Hawke’s Bay’s Te Awanga Coast, just get better with every passing year. Crafted from fruit sourced in the sun-trap that is the Gimblett Gravels (it’s always at least 2 degrees hotter there than other parts of the Bay) this Italian stallion is highly perfumed with red rose, boysenberry, dried sage, bay and pepper. In the mouth it’s smooth and elegantly structured, packed with dark fruit and cocoa-like flavours. Sophisticated. Stylish. Seriously sippable. www.beachhouse.co.nz
