Saint Clair Pioneer Block 17 Plateau Merlot 2014 $33 ★★★★½
Cleverly crafted by winemakers Matt Thomson and Hamish Clark (who has a background in microbiology, zoology and forensic science interestingly enough) from fruit grown in the Gimblett Gravels, this is a wine with deeply earthy aromas of chocolate, liquorice and cured meats. Those same characters soak through onto the palate lifting peppery spices, dark fruit and dried herb notes into the fore. It’s elegant and stylish but has serious punch, a bit like a kickboxer in a ballgown. www.saintclair.co.nz
