Mahana Clays and Gravels Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2014 $25 ★★★★
Previously known as ‘Woollaston Estate’, this is sauvignon blanc made ‘off road’ in that it’s about as far removed from the clean, green, crispy-clean style that New Zealand is famous for. Ripe fruit was fermented on its skins (to extract chew and astringency for texture), then the wine was aged for 12 months in a combination of oak puncheons and acacia barrels and the lees stirred regularly to add layers of silky creaminess. The result is a sauvignon showing lemongrass, pepper, lime, lean acidity and toasty oak complexity. Outstanding stuff. www.mahana.nz
