Published NZME Regional Newspapers Tue 16 Feb 2016
What’s up DOC, or was that DOCG? I think I might have VDT…
More and more Italian wine is becoming available in New Zealand, and while it’s hardly rocket science figuring out how Italy (with its climatic blessings) manages to produce superlative wines year after year, for the average wine lover, deciphering the Italian labelling system could be likened to understanding how NASA coaxes the space shuttle to clear the moon and re-enter the earth’s atmosphere. Complex is an understatement.
Denomination of Origin laws define Italy’s winemaking traditions and regulate every aspect of grape growing and winemaking, including grape varieties, their processing methods, aging and bottling. It’s about forming a quality control system similar to how the French classify their simple to superior wines. Italy’s laws have recently been amended to encourage experimentation with untraditional grape varieties and techniques and there are now four different quality categories:
Vino da Tavola (VDT) – cheap, cheerful table wines that don’t need to state a grape variety or a vintage date.
Indicazione Geografica Tipica ( IGT) – these wines sit between Vino da Tavola and DOC. The rationale is to slightly elevate a large amount of Italy’s better table wines. The wine’s label must declare its specific region and may cite varietal type and vintage.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) – Wines bearing this appellation are registered by the government. Their labels must state their zone of origin and the wines must meet certain production standards. Only approved methods of planting, cultivating and fertilizing can be employed and things like maximum yields, bottling specifications, alcohol content and aging are strictly controlled. The Italian government conducts random reviews and audits to ensure DOC’s are complying with the rules.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)
The most stringent of the categories, this appellation embraces all DOC assurances and further requires a wine producer to control and guarantee everything claimed on the wine’s label: zone of origin, net contents, name of grower and bottler, place of bottling and product’s alcohol strength. Affixed to the bottle is a government seal of approval and the wine is subject to analysis at any time by government inspectors.
Santa Sofia Lugana Veneto 2014 $22 ★★★½ 
This super-dry Italian white wine is made from 100% trebbiano grapes grown in the Lugana DOC area of Lombardy in the northern part of the country. With deliciously complex aromas of almond meal, oats, lime and sea breezes, it’ll definitely appeal to anyone who likes to explore whites that aren’t all about predictable fruit flavours. www.mediterraneanfoodcompany.co.nz
Cristina Ascheri Gavi de Gavi DOCG 2014 $29 ★★★★★
Straight off the bat, I LOVE this wine! Crafted from Cortese grapes (how cool is that for a grape name), this is a supremely classy, dry white wine with alluring aromas of crunchy green apple, freshly bruised basil, white pepper and wet stones. It’s generously proportioned in the mouth, packed with flavour, yet crisp and lipsmackingly tangy and lengthy on the finish. I would kill for a glass of this the next time I’m eating chicken with lemon and tarragon. www.manifestowinecompany.co.nz
If it’s cheap and cheerful, or something more challenging that you’re looking for, then best you read on because these will do more than nicely…
Nikau Point Select Hawke’s Bay Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 $13.99 ★★½
The Nikau Point brand has recently been given a spruce up, meaning it looks a tad more stylish on the table, which is always a good thing with a sub-$15 bottle. This is a lightweight red that has layers of dried herb, berry and spice notes, with a sniff of pepper and cocoa thrown in. It’s a soft, smooth, quaffable wine that’ll appeal to those who want a soft, fun sip. Widely available in supermarkets.
Spade Oak Voysey Gisborne Syrah Tempranillo 2013 $23 ★★★½
Tempranillo might be the signature red grape in the Spanish Rioja wines, yet over in Gisborne, Steve Voysey has had a crack at blending it with syrah which has its h0me in France’s Southern Rhone region. It’s resulted in a wine with sweet, almost medicinal aromas of smokers lollies, red liquorice, cherry and pepper. Smooth, plush and velvety in the mouth, it slips down gently, leaving a dusty wake. www.spadeoak.co.nz
Amisfield Central Otago Dry Riesling 2014 $25 ★★★★½
Winemaker Dr Stephanie Lambert and her team have absolutely cracked it with this ultra-clean, dry riesling that bursts with crunchy granny smith apple, juicy lime and flinty, wet stone minerality. It’s intensely vibrant, mouthwatering even, and I love the gum-tingling texture on the finish. www.amisfield.co.nz
