Published NZME Regional Papers Tue 26 Jan 2016
It’s a rare thing, (seeing as the modern New Zealand wine industry is still so very young in the bigger scheme of things) that anyone gets to sit down, taste wine and chat with a person whose been making wine at the same company for over 30 years. And yet that’s exactly what I found myself doing recently when the opportunity arose to spend time with Paul Mooney at Mission Estate.
The long and colourful history of Mission Estate began back in 1851 when a mission station was established near the Ngaruroro River where vines were planted to produce sacramental and table wines. The wines have weathered floods, building relocations, earthquakes and many a drama since, but it was under the tutelage of Brother John Cuttance that a young Paul Mooney began honing his winemaking skills back in the mid-1980’s and he’s been a part of the furniture ever since.
Their flagship wine is Jewelstone, a representation of the epitome of what Mooney and his team can achieve from prime, hand harvested cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and syrah. Being treated to a ‘vertical’ tasting of a selection of these wines dating back to 2006 was, just quietly, beyond great. The wines, all under cork, had been decanted and open for at least four hours before serving. Unlike many of Hawke’s Bay’s more famous reds, the oak, we’re told, is not something Paul and his team want to stick out in the wine. “We love (French barrel makers) Taransaud” says Paul, “we’re using these things called 119’s – they’re not a showy barrel. The oak sits in the background, and they’re just lovely”.
One current release is the Mission Jewelstone Antoine 2013 ($50)
Named in tribute to Father Antoine Garin, their pioneering winemaker in the mid-1800s, this is a blend of 58% cabernet sauvignon and 39% merlot from the Gimblett Gravels combined with a 3% squirt of cabernet franc from the Bridge Pa Triangle. 2013 was such a monster vintage and yet Mooney and his team have succeeded in keeping this wine on the elegant, restrained side. With menthol, pine needle and smoke-driven aromas that lead to savoury flavours, black olive, pepper and beefy characters in the mouth – it’s impressive.
The Jewelstone project is constantly evolving and has (if things keep tracking the way they are) possibly centuries of life ahead. “But I don’t have enough years on this planet to see all of our efforts with these wines come to fruition” Mooney muses. Shame that. Best we enjoy them while we can.
Terra Sancta Central Otago Mysterious White 2014 $24 ★★★½
Well there’s nothing I love more than a good mystery, and this cheek-slappingly tasty blend of muscat, gewürztraminer, pinot gris and riesling has plenty of that. With aroma of musk and apple skin, chalky mineral-like notes, powdery florals and punchy, white peach it’s a complex task to decide which layer to like best. So don’t bother, just enjoy this crazy white wine for what it is – a tasty enigma. www.terrasancta.co.nz
Ant MacKenzie ‘Toño’ Hawke’s Bay Rosado 2015 $17.95 ★★★½
Rosado is Spanish for rosé and they’re typically dry and bright. If you’re a rosé fan then you’ll love the forward and fruity aromas of creaming soda, raspberry coulis and watermelon in this fresh, juicy new release. It’s one of those wines that has real personality and good persistence of flavour. Superb with spicy seafood paella. www.blackmarket.co.nz
Invivo Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2015 $22 ★★★★½
Prepare yourself for a smash up of snappy, crunchy capsicum, crushed basil, lemon sorbet and all manner of tropical tangy-ness. This is a seriously good sauvignon that’s clean, precise and pure and ticks all those boxes for stylish summer sipping. Don’t serve it too cold though, otherwise all those fruity characters will be masked. Just an hour in the fridge before pouring is all you need. www.invivowines.com
Mud House Dambuster Marlborough Pinot Noir 2014 $39 ★★★★
This is the first single-vineyard release to come from the clay soils of their new ‘Woolshed’ vineyard located near the Delta Dam. Originally an old RNZAF base on land deemed too crap for cropping, this patch of dirt is more than proving itself in vines if this wine is anything to go by. Succulent and saucy, you can expect fresh cherry and red berry flavours, gentle spices, layers of savoury complexity and a plush, velvety mouthfeel. It’s just a puppy now, it’ll grow into its own feet nicely over the coming 2-3 years.
Caldora Sangiovese IGT $25 ★★★★
As soon as you begin pouring this wine into your glass, you’ll find people across the room will lift their noses and begin floating in your direction. The aromas are so powerfully sweet and spicy. Ripe plums, black cherry, boysenberry, pepper and chocolate-covered liquorice – it’s all here. Fresh and flirtaceous, it’s a lovely mama mia with meatballs swimming in passata sauce. For stockists ph Federal Merchants 095781823
