Elephant Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2013 $69 ★★★★★

According to winemaker Steve Skinner, they did 33 different picks across their syrah vineyards, which, for a smallish, 200-odd tonne winery is a huge effort “but it was so worth it because we were able to single out some absolutely stunning parcels to make wines like this one”.  With a tiny splash of co-fermented viognier to add floral lift to the pepper, plum and concentrated berry backbone.  In the mouth it’s beautifully balanced and boasts dusty, graphite-like tannins.  Fresh and full of life, it’s a limited, cellar door and wine club members only release – so best you scoot down there or sign up straight away.