Burn Cottage Central Otago Pinot Noir 2013 $60 ★★★★½
True to their biodynamic philosophies, Ted Lemon and Clair Mulholland conduct all their winemaking work in accordance with lunar and celestial rhythms. They use naturally-occurring, wild yeasts, minimize their sulphur use and avoid using additives or filters. If you want a definition of complexity, this pinot has it in spades. If you can imagine freshly-turned earth, soft smoke and spice notes, cocoa and cherry and berries in a bottle then this is it. The tannins are velvety-smooth, a reflection of their supremely gentle handling of the wine. Lovely. www.burncottage.com
