Sacred Hill Helmsman 2010 $85 ★★★★★
My first taste of this wine was a few years before the millennium and back then I was told the name represented something that led the way that stood ahead of the pack and steered you in the right direction. A Helmsman is released only in years when the fruit is unrivalled and when winemaker Tony Bish is confident it’ll stand the test of time. Intense black fruits, hints of dusty carpenters workshop, cheek-sucking tannins and an underlying power that makes you stop and think with every sip. www.sacredhill.com
