William Swainson, Fellow of the Royal Society was a natural history scholar, a naturalist who arrived in New Zealand in 1841 and Hawkshead was the name of his first home here. He shouldn’t be confused with a ‘naturist’ which is someone who prefers nudity wherever possible. Although what William did or didn’t wear behind closed doors is none of our business. Ahem. This new pinot gris from his ancestor, Denis Marshall, is clothed in crunchy-fresh pear, quince, apple and vibrant spices, with a texture that tantalises with sesame caesar salad.