Google says ‘fortissimo’ means ‘loud,’ yet this sensational take on sauvignon by Mike Eaton is soft and quietly sexy. Marzipan and citrus marshmallow notes on the nose lead to delicious complexity from a full malolactic fermentation and extended aging in older Tonnellerie-Ermitage barrels. Unfined and unfiltered, it may not look as glossy as other commercial sauvignon blancs, but its creamy, lemongrassy layers of flavour and texture more than compensate. Serve slightly chilled with freshly smoked trout. Drink now through 2023.