Smith & Sheth Cru Heretaunga Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2018 $40

Holy buttered muffin Batman! This is one of three, single-vineyard chardonnays released by Master of Wine Steve Smith and his team at Smith & Sheth, and it’s as complex as the design on the label.  Each of the vertical panels represents the exact genome sequence of the DNA of the grape varieties that Smith & Sheth grow. At first it feels very Chablis-like, but it deepens with time in the glass. With aromas of grilled grapefruit, caramelised apple and peachy complexity followed by a palate awash with clean, well-integrated oak, it’s stunning stuff indeed.