Mahi Marlborough Chardonnay 2017 $29

Blended from four vineyards from the western end of the Wairau Valley after a long, dry summer, the Mahi Marlborough Chardonnay 2017 ($29) is a funk-laced, stonefruit-soaked, toasty, smoky sip.  Crafted using only free-run juice and left to ferment wild, with no additions, before maturing in barrel for 11 months, the wine has delicacy and finesse, yet an undercurrent of don’t-mess-with-me on the palate.  Bottled without any protein finings, so it’s completely vegan-friendly too.  Nice.