Matavino Amelia Matakana Viognier 2017 $25 (3.5 stars)

You might imagine the little squiggle on the label is a graphic depiction of the ups and downs of working with nature. I prefer to think of it as a vine tendril left over on the wires post-pruning – much more obvious. Winegrower Jim Hight reckons Matakana is a great spot to grow viognier of the dry and mineral-driven persuasion. Named after his eldest grand-daughter who lives far far away in the Turks and Caicos Islands, there’s a whiff of apricot stone, jasmine and quartz dust and the mouthfeel is on the dry, mineral-driven side. A different, complex, northern style.

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