If you can catch a whiff of struck match on your first sniff then welcome to the world of sulphide complexity, something I love to see a little bit of in my chardonnay. With smoked pineapple, grapefruit and grilled peach characters zigzagging across the palate and erupting on the finish – it’s a super stylish example from this aristocrat producer. A meal in itself, sure. But unbutton that belt and sip with roast chicken boasting bacon rashers under the breast.