Lime Rock Central Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2014 $24 (4 stars)

Go for a hoon around Rosie Butler and Rodger Tynan’s vineyard located just outside of the tiny township of Tikokino (about 20 mins from Takapau and 10 mins from Onga Onga) and you’ll see incredible lumps of limestone rock puncturing the ridgelines. It’s this fossil-rich soil which gives this gris its classically crisp, cleansing, mineral-like texture, subtle pear and spiced nashi notes. Four years on from harvest it’s maturing beautifully and the finish is finely tuned and textural.

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