Cicada Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2015 $25 (4 stars)

Crafted by Kevin Courtney and his team at Riverby Estate in Marlborough, this is a hot blooded, power gewürztraminer.  There’s nothing blousy here, just a magic melange of lychee, ginger, grain spirit and a flinty, dry-as-dry texture. If you’ve been hesitant to venture back to gewürztraminer because of sickly sweet memories from decades ago then brave it up because this is a wine that stands out on its own, on a street corner, hollering for hot, spicy Mexian fish tacos…

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