Sileni Estates Sparkling Cuvée Pinot Gris NV $19 (2.5 stars)

I know packaging shouldn’t matter, but I really loathe those plastic ‘zork’ corks. The colour blue works on very few bottles and my eyes ache trying to digest more than 2 fonts on a label – but if you go beyond all the ‘busyness’ there’s actually an OK wine inside. Aromas of caramel apple brioche and poached pear merge with soft, yeasty, nutty notes in the mouth but then it falls short pretty quickly. There’s nothing ‘wrong’ with the wine – it’s fine, but it’s not really firing.

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