Penny’s Hill Cracking Black Shiraz 2013 $25 ★★★★½NV Penny's Hill Cracking Black Shiraz.

Named after the way that the soils dry out so much they crack and break the roots of the vines (which is actually a good thing because it controls the natural vigour of the vine) this shiraz has all those desirable pepper, liquorice, cocoa dust and cherry-berry characters you’d expect for this price.  But then it really ramps things up with a full, generously meaty mouthfeel and a long, deliciously dusty finish.