Alpha Domus The Navigator 2004 $25 *****

The fact that this wine is only $25 a bottle astounds me. It is one of Hawkes Bay’s most popular Bordeaux blends and after one sip it’s glaringly obvious as to why. It’s almost a crime to have this wine shut away in a bottle – there should be enormous open vats of it out in public spaces for us all to swim around in. As I poured it into a glass, it filled the room with the scent of plummy perfume, violets, black berryfruit, pepper and toasty oak. It’s bold, fruity, fleshy and warming on the palate with layers of prune, mace and pepper. Muscular tannins hold it together, add to its intensity and length of flavour and indicate a long and happy life for those disciplined enough to cellar it. For stockists phone 06 879 6752, email or buy online