Brave Roots Marlborough Viognier 2024 $55

If your experiences with Viognier have only ever been along the bold, blousy and broadly fruity side of the spectrum, then prepare to be impressed by this deliciously dry example from young Ukrainian winemakers Alina Tenetka and Masha Skorchenko. Displaying classic apricot kernel, jasmine, honeysuckle and citrus oil characters on the nose and palate, it’s also incredibly refreshing, youthful yet refined. Plus it has an underlying creaminess to finish, which rounds it out impressively.

Alina Tenetka and Masha Skorchenko are young Ukrainian winemakers whose friendship began 13 years ago at university in Kyiv. After vintages across the globe, they fell for Marlborough, seeing its potential beyond Sauvignon Blanc. While working at large local wineries, they nurtured a dream to create something brave. Sourcing Grüner Veltliner, Albariño and Viognier fruit, they carefully crafted their first small-batch wines at Forrest Estate while also studying for their WSET qualification. The name reflects creating something risky amidst predictable Marlborough styles and pays tribute to the local growers taking a chance on a few rows of vines that aren’t conventional. “We were also thinking if Ukrainian winemakers can make incredible wine during wartime, why can’t we make something brave too, on the other side of the world?” says Alina. It also encourages consumers to try something different to standard Sauvignon or Pinot Gris. “The label, with texture mimicking cracked earth and embossed golden roots, is a long story, but we used a Ukrainian designer and even printed them in Ukraine, to keep an authentic Ukrainian touch”, Alina adds. “I brought them back with me after my last trip home”. All wines available from Braverootswine.com