Alexia Restless Boy Wairarapa Sauvignon Blanc 2020 $25

As the mother of a son, I totally identify with winemaker Jane Cooper’s comparison between this wine made up of loads of different techniques and styles, with her son being a ‘walking weather system’ and her young family bringing together the “big, beautiful, fragile messiness of life”. Created using a mixture of steel tanks, concrete eggs, barrel ferments and skin contact carryon, it’s a lightly styled, softly herbaceous, minerally, apple-edged example that requires a good chill and a large glass.