Black Barn Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2017 $26 (4 stars)

Winemaker Dave McKee showed up on my doorstep recently, clutching a bottle of this shiny new wine looking grinny and proud. Deservedly so. Luxuriously textured, bursting with baked apple and spiced pear, white pepper and naturally juicy citrus characters. A hint of quince and racy acidity to finish shoots this gris into the sip-o-sphere. It jumps along your tongue like your tastebuds are a BMX track and you’re on the whoop-de-doos if you remember what that’s like.

www.blackbarn.com

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