Winemaker Simon Smail has let loose on his own label here, and the results are predictably top of the leader board. Gorgeous aromas of wild strawberries, herbal tea, cherry, hints of fruitwood smoke, rhubarb leaf and concentrated cranberry characters make it a new favourite sip for me. The tannins are juicy and elastic and the finish is long and earthy. It’s also dangerously easy to drink, especially with creamy, garlicky duck rillets spread on salty crostini.