If you can catch a whiff of struck match on your first sniff then welcome to the world of sulphide complexity, something I love o see a little bit of in my chardonnay. With smoked pineapple, grapefruit and grilled peach characters zigzagging across the palate and erupting on the finish – it’s a super stylish example from this aristocrat producer.  A meal in itself, sure.  But unbutton that belt and sip with roast chicken boasting bacon rashers under the breast

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